Savouring Bistronomic Cuisine in Paris: Jérémie Restaurant
For nearly one year, Chef Jérémie Tourdjman’s restaurant has offered exceptional cuisine in a friendly, elegant atmosphere, both intimate and modern. His signature dishes represent the best of what has been called “bistronomic” cuisine, a term describing the forward-thinking culinary emphases by protégés of Christian Constant, of which Chef Jérémie is one, having previously steered Constant’s flagship, Michelin-starred Violon d’ Ingres for four years. Bistronomy is a portmanteau of the words bistro and gastronomy, suggesting a small restaurant of modest setting in which the prepared foods are of gourmet quality. Here the chef utilizes fine dining ingredients and techniques, served in the casual mileu of the traditional bistro rather than an exclusive, elitist environment.
Jérémie Restaurant opened in January 2014, just a five-minute walk from the Trocadéro metro station at 33 Rue de Longchamp. It is in an area renovated in the 19th century by Georges-Eugene Haussmann whose vast public works program at the time of Napolean III transformed and modernized Paris. But for a stunning crystal chandelier, the brightly lit bistro is more minimalist than ornate, featuring a few limited edition collector photos and a wall mural, reminiscent of a fresco, of the interior of a house in Cuba. The emphasis of this 60-seat establishment is on fresh ingredients, superb service, and fantastic fare.
Shortly after being seated we met Chef Jérémie who came to our table immediately to greet us and to chat briefly. From the beginning he was eager to know our interests and to candidly offer his suggestions. Though his waitstaff were attentive and professional, a very real part of the charm of dining here was the constant attention our Chef de Bistrot paid to our dining experience. Similarly, the chef makes a conscious attempt to visit all the patrons, often delivering his house specialties in person.
Our evening began with a delightful glass of Barbier Grand Cru rosé (105€) and an amusé bouche consisting of cheese bread with a medallion of tomato and olive.
Perusing the menu, we found it to reflect the personality of the chef: young, innovative and original. In general, a restaurant’s menu reveals the chef’s experience, his tastes and his willingness to offer traditional, and perhaps elaborate dishes. Chef Tourdjman, trusting his instinct and training, follows a more modern and original interpretation. We opted for the Menu Dégustation, or Tasting Menu, consisting of 6 courses for 65€. As we dined throughout the evening, I noticed the tables of the restaurant filling up with guests, a sign that Jérémie Restaurant is achieving the popularity it deserves.
We sampled three of the six items on the Appetizer portion of the menu. The first was Pumpkin Cream Soup and Rosemary Crab Raviole. The warm, creamy soup captured the essence of autumn, the piquant flavor of pumpkin evoking memories of warming up by a cozy fire. A soft Pinot Gris (2013) Vin d’Alsace by Wolfberger, served as a light and fruity accompaniment.
Our second appetizer was Cold Pressed Viande de Grisons and Beaufort Cheese with Red Beets and French Dressing. “This is one of my specialties,” announced our chef. Viande de Grisons is also a specialty of the Alps and may be described as a beef prosciutto or air-dried beef. This thinly sliced beef was presented on a dark green plate and came with pine nuts and red onions. Paired with this lovely dish was a very fine 2013 Domaine de l’Arjolle Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc, from Languedoc in southern France. Although blending these two varietals is uncommon, the tropical flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc meshed well with the apricot aromas of the Viognier.
Next we were served Crispy Egg, Chestnut Mousseline and Truffles Oil Emulsion. This was paired with a fine and fruity white wine, the 2013 Mâcon-Azé Domaine de La Garenne (55€) from the Burgundy region of France.
For the fish main course, we enjoyed Erquy Scallops with ginger, mushroom and leek fondue. The scallops were served on a bed of leek strands and enhanced by a distinct peppery taste from the ginger. Large, moist, and enticing, the scallops were presented perfectly and tasted heavenly.
The meat main course consisted of Shallot Beef Sirloin Steak with Old Parmigiano Macaronis Gratin. This was the most unusual innovation of the evening, in that a portion of steak was served alongside a portion of baked macaroni—an American-style conception. “Have you ever had this combination before?” asked our chef. We had not, but the unlikely pairing worked fine!
Along with this course we were served a 2012 Les hauts de Goelane “La part des Anges” from Bordeaux, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This full-bodied blend, our only red wine of the evening, worked well beside the meat course.
Next, Chef Jérémie served us his Brie de Meaux with Truffles, a cheese, he notes on the menu, that is “made by us.” In the preparation of his cheese, the chef has introduced truffles, imparting a nuance of unique flavor. Meaux, about 50 km (31 miles) east of Paris is a significant area of production for Brie, an ancient cheese first attested to in the chronicles of Charlemagne who tasted the cheese in the small city of Brie in 774. Supposedly, at the time of the French Revolution, Louis XVI’s last wish was for a final taste of Brie. Chef Jérémie is justifiably proud of his creation as he explained he had a letter from Pierre Agostini, congratulating him on being awarded the Chef of the Month for his cheese in October 2014 by the International Dairy Association.
Our final dessert course was another specialty by Chef Tourdjman, his Vanilla Millefeuille with butterscotch sauce. Traditionally, mille-feuille consists of three layers of puff pastry with two layers of cream between the pastry layers. At one time it was called gateau de mille-feuilles (cake of a thousand sheets), referring to the numerous layers of pastry. Though it also goes by the name Napolean, it is most widely known as Millefeuille. A classic dessert for this restaurant (meaning that you will always find it on the menu), the yarrow vanilla dessert is often accompanied by fresh strawberry or other seasonal offerings, depending upon the creativity of the chef. Though some might consider this the chef’s piéce de résistance, of equal stature, we conclude, were the chef’s Viande des Grisons and his Brie de Meaux with truffles.
By the time our excellent dinner came to its glorious conclusion, we found the restaurant nearly full of patrons. Clearly we were not the only ones there who felt the discovery of this place was to be savored and enjoyed thoroughly. Evidenced by its current position of 12th on Trip Advisor (among 13,000 or so Parisian restaurants) there is further testimony beyond our own that Jérémie Restaurant is having a significant impact on Paris’s culinary scene.
33 rue de Longchamp
+33 (0) 1 47 04 96 81