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 It
goes by trattoria on the printed menu but
Do Forni is really a first-class ristorante.
Located near San Marco piazza, this elegant dining
establishment has entertained notables from General
Norman Schwarzkopf to Diana Spencer to the former
president of Italy, Silvio Berlusconi. And while
Do Forni bills itself somewhat gloriously as
il ristorante di Venezia (“The” restaurant of
Venice) it also tries hard to live up to its name.
One’s first impression of a thirty-six
year-old family-run restaurant might be that its owners
may have become tired of the business and can now afford
to rest on their laurels while coasting to the finish
line We wondered if “tried and true” recipes that had
seen better days might be trotted out to us. Sometimes
offering the “classics” can be a way for restauranteurs
to hold back from exercising their more creative gifts.
Not so at Do Forni. The father-son
ownership team of Eligio and Diego Paties has worked
hard to earn its place in Venice’s pantheon of fine
restaurants.
Our waiter recommended a trio of hors
d’oeuvres for our family of three. The first was scampi
and scallops on a bed of rice, seasoned with an oil,
lemon, salt and pepper dressing. The next was entitled
“The Doge’s Hors D’Oeuvres,” consisting of spider crab,
shrimp and mantis shrimp—an aristocratic triumph. To
accompany these items, while considering that much of
our dinner would consist of fish courses, we
nevertheless opted for a light red wine. Our waiter
suggested the 2006 Blauberger Pino Nero, a fine choice.
As we enjoyed the presentation of the appetizer course
and sampled our first bites, we learned that the white
shrimp we tasted was found only in the northernmost
waters of the Adriatic, due to its particular water
temperature. Here was one of the evening’s unique
specialties—a Venetian wonder. In addition, our waiter
suggested a plate of thinly sliced San Daniele raw ham
for our teenage son. We laughed as our server brought
him what he termed“ American champagne,” a small bottle
of Coke, to wash down the appetizer and following
courses.
Next came the pasta course. We enjoyed
immensely owner Eligio’s fresh tagliolini, made with
scampi and asparagus tips. And as any healthy American
teenager would hope to find in a fine Italian
restaurant, ribbon noodles alla Bolognese suited our
son's appetite perfectly. For our main course we chose
to share the mixed grill of fish while our carnivorous
kid enjoyed a marvelous sirloin steak accompanied by
roasted potatoes. Our mixed grill (minimum 2 persons)
consisted of delicious portions of sea bass, grilled
sole, monkfish and giant scampi, all cooked to
perfection.
At this point during our five-star meal,
our waiter came by our table to answer some of our
questions. We wondered if Do Forni served
many soups, to which the answer is, “of course.” It was
then we heard about another specialty—squid cooked in
its own ink, served with two polenta cakes. Now this I
just had to try! While everyone else around me declined
to share this surprise dish, I went ahead and devoured
it with gusto. For me it was the hit of the evening.
Though
it may not appear on the menu, and should you visit
Do Forni, make sure you ask for this
unbelievably marvelous house specialty.
For dessert I requested the wild
strawberries—oh so tiny but fresh and sweet. These were
not the pumped-full-of chemicals variety that look
better than they taste. These were hand-picked,
organically grown strawberries of uncommon flavor. My
wife was delighted by her tiramisu, creatively presented
with an outline of a fork that had been dusted with
cocoa powder. We also shared my son’s order of owner
Diego’s crepes served with Grand Marnier flavoring and
vanilla ice cream. And, as if we hadn’t been served
enough food to stretch our waistbands, our hosts
generously brought forth yet another presentation, this
one a complimentary tray of fresh fruit consisting of
pineapple, cherries, grapes, blood oranges and kiwi.
In all, it was a feast befitting a member
of the Venetian aristocracy, a meal made all the more
memorable by the comfortable ambience, exquisite service
and extraordinary selection of superb culinary
delights.
And, finally, this elegant establishment
is also host to an international exhibition of graphic
arts, reaching back over twenty-two years. Since 1986,
The Do Forni has given recognition to
graphic artists from Italy, Spain, France, the former
Yugoslavia, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Czech Republic,
the U.S., China, and several other countries by awarding
the Premio do Forni, an international award of
distinction. This year’s recipient is Sir Peter Blake
from the UK, whose works adorn several walls throughout
the restaurant. And, in a nearby hallway are found the
first editions of prints from each of the winning
artists from the previous years since this award began.
Thus, in the City of the Arts one may dine in the grand
tradition of the “Ristoranti dell’ arte,” the Do
Forni, truly an Italian classic.
Website:
www.doforni.it
Email: info@doforni.it
Location: Just off the San Marco Piazza,
on Calle Specchieri 468/457
Telephone: 0415232148
Fax: 041528132
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