IPA Magazine-Luxury Travel Reviews

A Magnificent Michelin Star in Munich

The Garden Restaurant at the Bayerischer Hof Hotel, Munich

Bayerischer Garden RestaurantThe Garden Restaurant in Munich’s majestic Bayerischer Hof is one of the hotel’s two haute cuisine restaurants having been awarded a Michelin Star.  The rooms of both Garden and Atelier, created by Belgian art dealer and interior designer Axel Vervoordt, provide settings reminiscent of an artist’s studio in what has been called an “industrial-style conservatory design.”  Natural materials and artfully positioned light create an environment that is both impressive and inviting.  The glass ceiling and huge, floor-to-ceiling windows allow natural daylight from long summer evenings to permeate the surroundings, bringing tasteful warmth to an otherwise cool, sedate setting.

The Garden features an inspiring mixture of Mediterranean and South German cuisine. Entering the restaurant, we were greeted warmly and seated promptly.  A basket of fresh sliced bread choices (sourdough, kalamata olive, and dark rye) was brought to our table and cold, bottled water was offered and poured.  Our server recommended two local wines for our dinner, both from the Pfalz region, also known as the Palatinate, in southwestern Germany.  The first was a 2011 Sauvignon Blanc I from the Winning vineyard (Weingut) in Deidesheim, Pfalz.  Naturally fermented in wooden casks, the light golden green liquid has a complex aroma with notes of citrus, particularly grapefruit.  It also has a slight grassiness, followed by a delicately spicy and mineral finish.  This was a perfect choice for the starters and early courses we were to be served.  Our server thoughtfully brought an ice bucket to our table to keep the wine chilled throughout our initial courses.

An amusé bouche consisting of a rolled slice of anchovy filled with a green, wasabi-like pâte was served to get things started.  The anchovy greeting was, we thought, a bold move by the chef; however our palates were reluctant to follow his direction, although every course thereafter was superb.

An Italian duo of creatively presented raw appetizers arrived at our table. The two carpaccio starters were served as our first course which my wife and I eagerly shared with each other. Carpaccio of lobster with lime terragon vinaigrette, frisée and sugar snap pea (€21.50) was presented to the lady.  The thinly sliced raw lobster was nicely complemented by the tangy lime vinaigrette.  Not mentioned on the menu but thoughtfully added were scrumptious pine nuts, a welcome accompaniment. I was served Carpaccio made of US Beef with Cipriani-sauce and ratatouille salad (€18.50).  The Sauvignon Blanc pairing for both starters turned out to be a fine match.  Incidentally, carpaccio, first appearing about 1963, was a creation of Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice, and named for painter Vittore Carpaccio, known for the red and white tones that characterized his work.

Next came fried scallops with parmesan cheese foam and spinach cream.  Although this item did not appear on the a la carte menu, it does appear as the second offering in the four-course “Garden Menu” (€65.00).  Our buttery scallops, always a hit, were mild, savory, and perfectly enhanced with the flavors of the shaved parmesan cheese and spinach cream sauce.  It was easy to see why the restaurant would choose to offer this item on their table d’hôte.

Pasta Tagliatelle with roasted mushroom caps was the next item to be served.  The long, flat ribbons of pasta Bayerischer Garden Restaurant2originating from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna and Marche regions, were buttery and extra flavorful with the mushroom additions.  Resembling fettuccine, tagliatelle pasta is wider and made with egg.

Somewhere during this course our server brought out a large glass decanter and opened our second bottle of wine for the evening.  This was a 2012 “Laumersheimer Kirschgarten” Spätburgunder from the Knipser winery in Laumersheim, Pfalz.  The German term Spätburgunder is the word for the pinot noir grape. If Germany’s best-known white wines are produced from Riesling, its red wine counterpart is the Spätburgunder or pinot noir. Germany now ranks third worldwide after France and the USA in area devoted to Spätburgunder. It is the most widely planted red grape in Germany, accounting for 11.5 % of the country’s total vineyard area. Our server, after removing the cork, slowly poured the entire contents of the bottle into the decanter and let the wine sit for over half an hour before serving. The Knipser Spätburgunder has aromas of dark red fruits with hints of raspberries and cherries with 13.5% alcohol. A slightly smoky, espresso-like finish was evident.  Knipser ages its Blue Pinot Noir for about a year in used oak barrels before bottling.  This wine is worthy of ordering for any meat course and has a finish you will long remember.

Our fourth and main course was fillet of veal with pisto sauce, pepper, field beans and gnocchi (€34.00).  The veal was tender and flavorful and, accompanied by the superb wine pairing mentioned above, was the hit of the evening.  Normally, I am not a big fan of the usually doughy gnocchi, but the small bites had the taste and consistency not unlike potato, so I was pleased with the overall combination.

Our wonderful dining experience was approaching three hours and the desert course was next on the horizon.  We both chose the Almond savarin with cold plum ragout and poppy ice cream (€11.50).  The shortcake-like dessert with the marinated plum ragout was a hit, especially with the mint-leaf adorned poppy-seed laced ice cream.  It was a fitting way to climax a very filling and very satisfying meal.  Our delightful team of servers provided first-rate service and spent considerable time with us explaining the preparation of each dish and each one’s ingredients.  Dining in fine restaurants such the Garden can be an educational as well as hedonistic experience, and our excellent team of servers greatly enhanced our spectacular evening there.

Readers should know that the Bayerischer Hof also features the Palais Keller, an historical vault restaurant in the Palais Montgelas serving Bavarian specialties with its own bakery.  There is also a Trader Vic’s serving Polynesian specialties from the wok and oven-prepared cuisine. Finally, the Blue Spa Lounge on the top floor serves light wellness cuisine in a spectacular setting above the rooftops of Munich.  When staying as a guest in the Bayerischer Hof, there is truly a wonderful array of dining choices for the discriminating foodie.

Garden Restaurant
Phone +49 89.21 20-993

Hours of Operation
Daily from 12 noon to 3 PM and
6 PM to midnight.
Menu orders will be accepted until 10.30 PM.

Located in:
Hotel Bayerischer Hof
Promenadeplatz 2-6
80333 Munich, Germany
PO Box 100 253
80076 Munich, Germany
Phone:  +49 89 21 20-0
Fax:   +49 89 21 20-906

www.bayerischerhof.de
info@bayerischerhof.de

 

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