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Wrights at The Arizona Biltmore Resort and SpaWrights Restaurant at the Biltmore
Wright’s at the Biltmore The historic, signature restaurant of the Arizona Biltmore Resort and Spa is located just steps away from the Biltmore’s stunning lobby. Wright’s has been newly renovated and features the bold new culinary concept of American Lodge Cuisine. Under the direction of Chef de Cuisine Conor Favre, the restaurant is known for its many special dinners throughout the year featuring original, one-of-a-kind menus. Strolling through the restaurant and passing by the wine cellar after being greeted by our host, we ascended a few steps and were shown to our table that placed us perfectly between the outdoor dining patio while overlooking the indoor tables below. Gazing around us, we couldn’t help but feel the immensity of the block architecture featuring Frank Lloyd Wright’s distinctive palm design, serving as a solid reminder that we were dining in a historic establishment of elegance, substance and charm. The restaurant’s distinctive architecture combined with floor-to-ceiling windows and striking pewter chandeliers became the perfect setting for an enjoyable and memorable meal. Our server William arrived at our table and presented us with a basket of three bread selections, introducing himself and informing us of the evening’s specialties. The basket was filled with cracked pepper and parmesan lavash, a scrumptious ciabatta featuring a blend of chopped olives, and whole grain rolls laced with flax seed and cherries. In a moment William returned with a special chef creation, served in advance of the appetizer course, an amusé, as he called it. This playful treat consisted of a delicate slice of a locally-grown organic Heirloom tomato delivered from the Maya boutique farm, topped with quince vinaigrette and bay shrimp, and garnished with radish sprouts and basil. Because the evening was warm and we had arrived early, we felt inclined toward a chilled white wine rather than a red, and we hadn’t yet made up our minds for our main course. William suggested a 2007 Napa Valley selection, a Plump Jack Chardonnay which turned out to be a total delight and excellent accompaniment for our upcoming courses. Chef Conor Favre then made an appearance at our table, spending a few minutes inquiring about us and then informing us of various selections on the evening menu. Mr. Favre studied Asian cuisine at the Culinary Institute of America and regional Italian cuisine at the Western Region Culinary Excellence Education Program. His previous positions in the area include serving as Chef de Cuisine of Dual Restaurant as well as chef roles at the Marriott Mountain Shadows Resort and Golf Club and at the J.W. Marriott Desert Ridge Resort & Spa. For an appetizer he suggested Coquille St. Jacques, a favorite Biltmore classic. This elegant dish consisted of pan-seared diver scallops, potatoes blini, along with wild Oregon mushrooms and a delicate cream sauce. A three-course tasting menu is featured daily at Wright’s. We spent a few moments studying this first of several options. On this day’s Table d’hote, the first course consisted of a white frisee and Mesa farms warm goat cheese. This course was further described as featuring Shamrock Farms White Frisee, toasted goat cheese crostini, fresh strawberries, spiced almonds and sun soaked cranberry with a ruby berry  vinaigrette. The second course was simply called The Chef’s Daily Masterpiece. Today the selection featured scallops which, since we had just ordered the Coquille St. Jacques, meant that we could look further on the menu to find other choices. The third course, Springtime Strawberries and Cream, featured frozen strawberry gelato, home made pound cake, vanilla cream and warm strawberry compote.
Chef Favre informed us that the Wild Salmon was a particular favorite of many. It is served with parmesan and chive risotto, baby spinach and heirloom tomato emulsion. Other dishes on the evening menu include Hawaiian Ono, New York Steak Au Poivre, House Made Sea-Salt Pasta, Pan Roasted Chicken Breast, Snake River Farms Double Pork Chop, and an Oven-Roasted Chicken Salad.
But two other favorites seemed most appealing to us. One was the Aged Buffalo New York Loin. This became my wife’s choice. The thick, medium-rare steak was served with white cheddar and Yukon puree, along with creamy arugula and rosemary jus. This particular cut of buffalo, we were told, came from Texas. It had been years since I had tasted Buffalo, long ago on a trip to Wyoming when we visited the town of Cody and attended the rodeo there. And on this occasion our buffalo steak was magnificent. It was flavorful, tender and cooked to perfection. I was glad my wife was in a sharing mood, so I took advantage of the generous portion she served me.
But I think my sautéed Steak Diane was the winner that night. This classic dish from L’Orangerie, as it was called, featured two medallions of beef served with wild Oregon mushrooms, tournee vegetables and a fabulous peppercorn mustard brandy cream sauce. My vegetable selection included turnips and asparagus served al dente. The cream sauce was incredibly delightful and I made sure to drench each forkful of steak in that peppery concoction. As we savored each taste sensation the soothing sounds of piano music filled the room while couples chatted watching the late spring sun set silently in the west.
Our dining experience was not nearly over, however. The white porcelain rectangular dinner plates were barely cleared when, once again, our waiter appeared to suggest Chef Favre’s signature desserts: two amazing soufflés. Mine was a peach orchard soufflé, made of locally grown peaches, served with a pistachio gelato that rivaled any gelato I had ever tasted in Italy. I had been to Florence, Venice and Rome within the past year and cannot remember having gelato that tasted as good. Chef Favre’s peach soufflé was hot, sweet and wonderfully flavorful. My wife ordered the chef’s rich chocolate soufflé, served with a very hot and excellent chocolate sauce, the most appropriate selection for this chocolate fancier. Though we were amply satisfied with our appetizer and dinner portions, our desserts were simply too amazing for us to put aside unfinished. Any shred of self-discipline we might have retained at that moment simply vanished in the face of these incredibly tasty delights.
If I have one regret it i s that I did not try the famous Waldorf Salad. As I look over the menu I remember considering ordering this salad at the time of our arrival, but we had been momentarily distracted. In truth, there would have been no way I could have found room to indulge in this additional course, so I will have a valid excuse to return one day in order to have the pleasure. On the menu the Waldorf is described with these words: “A classic down memory lane, served two ways. The 1896 original from New York’s Waldorf-Astoria, and the 1929 Bowman’s version from the Arizona Biltmore. Crisp Apple, Candied Walnut and Sweet Grape.” Indeed, there are other items on the menu that look equally appealing, so I shall have to wait for the next time.
Wright’s also features an intimate and atmospheric wine cellar for private dining events for up to eight guests. The extensive wine list features 470 unique labels and about 3,700 bottles, a wide selection of which is stored in the wine cellar. Open nightly for dinner, the restaurant also serves a highly acclaimed Sunday Brunch.
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